Out and about in Paris
Paris. The city that brought us the Eiffel Tower, hot fashion, Escargot, and Moulin Rouge.
That is what I imagine the intro might have been if I were a well-travelled blogger. Sadly, I am not. The highest structure I have ever seen was the head gear of the shaft in the mining town I grew up in. Moulin Rouge, to me, was a musical that I sat through despite my hate of musicals, because: Nicole Kidman, tight dresses and high heels. Hot fashion is a concept as foreign to me as quantum physics and Escargot sounds like a fancy car.
So, if you’re in the market for a travel blog for the seasoned, well-travelled jetsetter, I have nothing to sell you. What I can offer you for free, is a quick trip through Paris by a rookie. I mean what can a globetrotter teach you? Handy, practical travel tips that could save you lots of time and money. Who needs more time or money, right? Now that I am done talking you out of reading my blog, let’s begin.
First, a brief look at the history of Paris/France. I did all the dirty work for you so enjoy this summary 😊
- Celtic Gauls called the Parisii founded Paris 259 BC
- Fights with the Romans
- Paris under Roman rule 52 BC
- Franks arrive (Germanic people)
- Franks unite Gaul as a kingdom and names Paris as capital in honour of Parisii tribe
- Enters Scandinavian Vikings (also called Normans)
- 100 years of war eventually resulting in French defeat, Paris under English control (yeah, it’s confusing – the Scandinavian Vikings who were also called Norman were actually English…but how?)
- Enters Joan of Arc – a 17-year-old Catholic girl who convinces the king to rally the soldiers to regain control of France
- Success! Yay! Paris back under French control
- Enters religious war between French Huguenots (Protestants) and Catholics
- At age 5 Louis XIV ascends the throne and rules France until 1715
- Enters wars. Lots of wars. Lots of expensive wars, impoverishing the citizens of France
- King Louis, no longer 5 years old (because that would just be wrong), marries Marie Antoinette and because she is a privileged brat who looks down on the poor, the French citizens become so enraged that they storm the Bastille (which is a fortress and not a pop band)
- Sidenote – how do we know that Marie Antoinette is a brat? When the French complained about the fact that the peasants had no bread, she replied “let them eat cake”. Personally, I prefer cake over bread every day of the week, but according to all reliable sources this enraged the French public.
- Anyway, enters the French revolution where everyone destroyed everything because somehow, they thought that this would set them free from the monarchy
- Enters my favourite French invention: the Guillotine, which was invented by a physician as a means of a quicker more efficient method of execution. These public executions became a popular source of entertainment as vendors sold programmes daily, listing the names of people being executed. Spectators would fight for the best spots and even brought along their children for the outing. Bizarre, I know. Not more bizarre than the idea of making a soup that championed the humble onion.
- Enters the Reign of Terror, where people just chopped off heads all over the show, no longer based on political reasons, but settling personal scores with Madam Guillotine. Heads rolled. Literally.
- Clearly this was not sustainable, therefor enters the 5 Man Directory
- Yes, you guessed it, this is where 5 men, assisted by another 500 men who were tasked with drafting legislature, reviewed and approved by another council of 250 men (over the age of 40…why? nobody knows, but I am suspecting all numbers had to be equally divided by 5 hahahahaha) was all it took to reign in the chaos and bring about world peace. Just kidding.
- Enters Napoleon Bonaparte
- Enters wars. Many many battles. They were victorious this time around 😊Until they were not ☹Russia
- Exits Napoleon
- Enters Napoleon III, his nephew, who proceeds to rule France for 18 years before picking a battle with Prussia (yes, I also had to Google who the Prussians were….it was some part of Germany that is now divided between Germany, Poland, Denmark, Belgium, Czech Republic, Russia and Lithuania. Is that even possible?)
- Exits Napoleon III and enters the French Third Republic
- Finally. Optimism. Regional peace. Prosperity. Art. They called this period Belle Epoque.
- Who would dare burst this bubble of Euphoria? Yes, Adolf Hitler.
- Paris under German rule until 25 August 1944
- When Allied forces liberated France, Paris regained their position as the world capital of free thinkers
- Breathe sigh of relief
If you are still with me, welcome back. If you skipped through the history part, good work, you lazy fart. Now, back to our trip.
As with everything else in life, my very patient, logistically gifted wife was my companion. Not just because she is logistically gifted. I am not, not logistically gifted, I just always turn right at a crossroads because my inner navigator is a drunk with a heavy right hand. This means that if my wife does not intercept, I will walk in continuous circles until the Armageddon comes to save me. So, I take her with me because she guides me and also: married life.
We decided to visit Paris because it’s a short trip from Rotterdam and my wife said no to a long trip to Italy that would have cost us a small fortune. Happy wife, happy life. We took a train from Rotterdam central to Paris. The train did what trains do. It chugged along through Belgium, where we were able to get quick glimpses of Brussels and Antwerp. These quick glimpses led to me suggesting another trip the following weekend, which my wife promptly declared as too soon. So, along we chugged to Paris, me internally sulking, but outwardly smiling.
The trip took three hours, which we filled with meditating, trying to find our balance and not knocking into strangers on the way to the onboard bar, and mindless chatting. Mindless chatting is something that we would be really good at if it was an Olympic sport. It also happens to be the only sport we partake in. We finally arrived in Paris, where we took the metro to our studio that was based in the second quarter of Paris. I only know about second quarters in fiscal years because I am that exciting, but apparently the city is divided into twenty districts, that then gets divided into 4 quarters. All of this useless mathematics still does not tell you where we stayed and that is why I still regret suffering through linear programming. I am still waiting for linear programming to help me in life.
I think I just vomited all of that mathematics onto the page because I didn’t want to relive my metro experience. I am really good at avoidance. But it’s worth mentioning that I almost started our short break with a mental breakdown. I want to state categorically, that I hate the metro in Paris. Deeply. We did not board the metro; we were simply shoved onto it by the wave of commuters. I ended up directly under the very sweaty armpit of a French guy that had funky cheese for brunch. Zero personal space. I could hear my nervous system switching to dysregulation. I had arms poking into my ribs, crotches of people I did not marry rubbing against me and I could feel breath on my ear and not in a sexy Fifty Shades of Grey kind of way. I was in complete flight mode with nowhere to go.
Luckily, it was a short – hellish but short – ride and we were able to find the studio relatively easily. The very nice French receptionist decided to join us in a lift fit for one skinny person. So now we were one skinny person (the receptionist, obviously) and two bigger people with huge backpacks, one with a still dysregulated nervous system. I had visions of the elevator getting stuck and we had zero edible items in the backpacks. Not that we would be able to reach them since we were crammed into the lift like sardines. I didn’t want to die in a stuffy lift with my nose against the wall and a stranger’s breasts in my wife’s face. I can’t speak for my wife.
Finally, we reached the fourth floor where the receptionist said many French words and street names and things I didn’t understand. Like any other time I didn’t understand a word, I nodded and smiled. I took my first long breathe since I ended up under that sweaty armpit as she left our studio. This magically helped my nervous system to regulate itself – that and the encouragement from my wife who lied to me about how well I had handled the situation.
After quickly unpacking, we finally left the studio and started exploring. I don’t know if Paris is normally quiet on a Friday afternoon, but we found it relatively quiet in comparison to Amsterdam, which is always pumping. The wide sidewalks were a breath of fresh air and there was an exciting buzz in the air. Paris has a hum to it – some kind of mysterious vibration just underneath the surface that you can’t explain. It just lifts your vibrations and before you know it you are buzzing along.
Despite the bad wrap that the French normally get, we found them very friendly and helpful. They certainly stick to speaking French despite the fact that you can’t understand a word that they are saying, but at least they smile while doing it. They also will bring you your bill when they feel that you are taking up space at a table that they want to turn. Our first stop was for food because one of us gets hangry (it’s not my wife). After a meal that tasted just like South African food, we made our way to the Louvre – the biggest museum in the world. The museum is housed in the Louvre Palace, which is one of the most magnificent buildings I have ever seen. The sheer size of it took my breath away.
Despite having bought tickets months in advance, we stood in a very long queue where I was reminded, on numerous occasions, why I don’t have children. I could feel my ovaries clapping to thank me for removing our uterus, and with it the ability to bear children who constantly want things they can’t have. The Louvre, in my humble opinion, is like a huge gym, but with very nice and expensive pictures on the walls and some really nice sculptures. You climb oh so many stairs and there are oh so many floors. I saw panting men with red faces that I was absolutely certain would collapse on those staircases.
It was super crowded (in 2022 the museum received 7.8 million visitors) and the line to get close enough to the Mona Lisa was so long that we just gave up. I felt that I had seen her on many t-shirts and coffee cups, so I wasn’t too sad about that. I also feel that nothing and nobody on earth deserves that kind of idolatry. According to Google, Mona Lisa’s claim to fame stems from the fact that it been stolen in 1911 (and recovered in 1915). I personally don’t find it very remarkable.
I did see some other pieces that I found beautiful, such as ‘’Saint Jerome in His Study’’ by Colantonio and I was especially drawn to ‘’Atalanta and Hippomenes’’ by Guido Reni. According to Greek mythology, Atalanta, the Husain Bolt of her times, challenges her suitors to a race, vowing to marry the victor, but to kill all the losers. Personally, I think there are less dramatic ways of staying on the shelf. Hippomenes distracts her by throwing three golden apples in her path, which she stops to collect, allowing him to cross the finish line first and become her husband. Nobody tells us whether she strangled him in his sleep at a later stage. We ended day one with 21 966 steps on the counter and throbbing feet.
Our second day was a bit rainy, but we still managed to take in the sights from the Hop on Hop Off bus. The open top bus took us on a course through the city, passing the Louvre (bringing back memories of endless flights of stairs), the famous Garnier Opera House, the Notre Dame (which is still in restoration after the terrible fire in 2019), the Latin quarter, La Sorbonne and The Arc de Triomphe.
All of these translate to gigantic structures, impressive architecture and ample opportunity for taking great pictures. That’s if you are not on a bus with an open top when it starts raining. I may or may not have had a small meltdown because I was wet and cold. We disembarked the bus at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, where we took the obligatory selfies with the tower in the backdrop. Personally, I didn’t find the Eiffel Tower very exciting. I am sure architecturally, it’s impressive to most. The tip of the tower is 330 metres high, and 1 665 steps takes you to the top. While I was underwhelmed seeing it during the day, it really paints a pretty picture when it lights up at night.
Fun fact – there were heavily armed soldiers monitoring the crowd around the Eiffel Tower. Paris is well known for riots, and I suppose it shouldn’t have been surprising, but it still felt strange seeing these young boys striding around carrying machine guns. They barely looked old enough to vote. If it wasn’t illegal to take photos of soldiers in uniform, I would have posted the picture that my wife may or may not have taken below.
Next up, was a boat cruise on the Seine River. The captain repeated the exact same facts that the narrator on the bus already shared with us. So, we sat back, had a beer, and some snacks that we had brought with us – the first piece of Dutch behaviour that we seemed to have adopted was packing snacks for random outings. Sadly, I was hoping to adopt the Dutch habit of taking the stairs instead of the elevator or riding a bicycle instead of making use of public transport – both things that could have helped me lose weight. But no, the snacks. I picked the snacks.
Back at the studio, we barely had time to relax before it was time to head out to Crazy Horse for a Cabaret show that involved beautiful scantily clad French ladies. The show was classy and tasteful – unlike my wife’s drink. I accidentally mixed her Gin with my Cola. Let’s just say what should have been my Malibu with Cola and her Gin and Tonic turned out to be two very different drinks. I can confirm that Gin and Cola is not a thing and never should be. In my defence, the club was dark, and I had two cocktails before the show.
Finally, we made it back to the studio without another metro meltdown. We ended day two with 16 324 steps on the counter and slightly intoxicated. We slept in on the last morning and listened to some French music. I suggest you purchase a Carla Bruni album if you’re into that seductive, sultry French vibe. Highly recommend. We strolled through the city while it was still relatively quiet (the French have a late start to the day) and ended up in one of the most beautiful churches I have seen, called the Eglise St-Eustache. Here we simply admired the stained glass and even witnessed a catholic christening. Although the church is open for public viewing, the priest welcomed all that were present to share in this special celebration.
I was still blissfully buzzing by the time we boarded the train back to Rotterdam. That’s until the Dutch boy in the seat behind me ate the biggest bag of the crispiest crisps that has ever crisped. It felt like forever and when he hit the bottom of the bag, he substituted crisps for an apple.
So, Paris in a nutshell? Paris is that mysterious lover you meet in the smoky jazz bar. She’s magical, classy and enchanting. She will steal your heart and leave you defenceless. Her energy is inviting, and you leave inspired, uplifted and rejuvenated: already plotting your return.
Hot tips: The metro can be scary, much like other big cities – get in and get out. Wear comfortable shoes. The French think everything is within walking distance – don’t believe them. It is not. I confirm – it is not. Kir vin blanc (a French cocktail of blackcurrant liqueur and white wine) makes you (me) passive aggressive. Don’t procrastinate – eat the crepe when the moment presents itself. Don’t believe your wife – you will not go back the next day. Don’t take too many pictures – remember to experience the moment in the moment. Trust me, the pictures don’t do the sights any justice anyway. Eat the macaron – buy a variety pack because variety is the spice of life. Book some outings in advance – if you try to find things to do when you arrive, everything is almost always fully booked. Don’t take pictures of soldiers in uniform. Don’t be tempted to book your return train or flight ticket for late afternoon when you very well know you have to check out of your room at 10 a.m. You will end up sitting and possibly napping on a dirty floor at the station.
And last but not least – do not mix Gin and Cola. Just don’t.